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They made one-of-a-kind quilts. Then Target came along

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Over the past twenty years, Gee’s Bend quilts have captured the general public’s imagination with their kaleidoscopic colours and daring geometric patterns. This groundbreaking artistic practice was cultivated by direct descendants of slaves in rural Alabama who experienced oppression, geographic isolation, and intense material constraints.

From that yr on, their improvisational art began to embody a really modern query: What happens when a particular cultural tradition collides with corporate America?

Enter Goal. The international retailer introduced a limited-edition collection based on quilt designs this yr in honor of Black History Month. Consumer appetite proved to be high, as many stores across the country sold out of checkered sweaters, water bottles and fake quilted blankets.

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“We are actually experiencing a real-time quilt renaissance right now,” says artist and researcher Sharbreon Plummer. “They are very popular and Target knew that. It created the biggest buzz when it came out.” Indeed, there may be a renewed interest amongst Gen Z and Millennials in conscious consumption and home-made products – cottagecore, bread baking and DIY bracelets – but each are at odds with the realities of fast fashion.

Target’s designs were “inspired” by five Gee’s Bend quilters who benefited limited financially from the gathering’s success. They received a flat rate for his or her premiums, quite than paying in proportion to Target’s sales. A Target spokesperson didn’t share sales figures for the gathering, but confirmed that it was indeed sold out in lots of stores.

This photo provided by Tangular Irby shows a Gee’s Bend x Target display at a Target store in Trumbull, Connecticut, on February 10, 2024. (Tangular Irby via AP)

Unlike the compensation structure of the Sixties Freedom Quilting Bee – an artist-run collective that fairly paid Gee’s Bend quilters who were paid and will collect Social Security advantages – one-time partnerships with corporations like Target only bring small advantages number of individuals, on this case five women from two families.

The maxim “representation matters” isn’t latest, but it surely is gaining wider application. But if visibility for some doesn’t translate into meaningful change for a marginalized community as an entire, how can we reconcile that?

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A story of outsiders

“Every step of the finances was problematic,” says Patricia Turner, professor emeritus of world art and culture and African-American studies on the University of California, Los Angeles, who traced the commoditization of Gee’s Bend quilts to white collector Bill Arnett within the Nineteen Nineties. “What really bothers me is that Target’s internal designer is manipulating the look of things to make them more accessible to audiences,” he says of the modified color palettes and patterns.

“Each weaver had the opportunity to provide feedback on the products in our collection multiple times throughout the process,” Target spokesman Brian Harper-Tibaldo wrote in an email.

Although miniature photos of makers appeared in some marketing materials and the text “Gee’s Bend” was printed on clothing tags, the corporate’s involvement in quilting was limited. As soon as Black History Month ended, the names and photos of the quilts were faraway from the vendor’s website.

While Target has pledged to spend greater than $2 billion on Black-owned businesses by 2025, it has no plans to work with the Gee’s Bend community again.

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The situation today is paying homage to the Nineteen Nineties, when some quilters enjoyed newfound visibility, others were disinterested, and still others felt exploited. (In 2007, some quilts were imported numerous lawsuits against the Arnett family, but all cases were settled out of court and little is thought concerning the lawsuits as a result of confidentiality agreements).

Gee’s Bend Quilters, from left, Lucy Marie Mingo, Nancy Pettway and Arlonzia Pettway work on a quilt on the Boykin Nutrition Center in Boykin, Alabama, on April 6, 2006. (Bernard Troncale/The Birmingham News via AP, file)

A for-profit approach emerged that disrupted Quilting Bee’s pricing structure and created “real division and disharmony in the community,” Turner explains, regarding its dealings with collectors, art institutions and business enterprises. “I think the severing of those ties due to the commercialization of their art form is sad.”

Art reproduction taken out of context

By recreating the aesthetic but stripping it of its social fabric and familial context, Target has didn’t capture the essence of what makes this particular craft tradition so wealthy and distinct.

Quilts are made to have a good time major milestones and are given as a present to honor a brand new baby or marriage, or to honor someone’s loss. Repurposing fabrics – torn blankets, frayed rags, stained clothes – is the core ethos of a community quilting practice that resists commodification. However, the Target collection was mass-produced from latest fabrics in factories in China and abroad.

Older generations of Gee’s Bend quilting are known for one-of-a-kind designs with clashing colours and irregular, wavy lines – visual effects that result from material limitations. Most worked at night in homes without electricity and had no basic tools resembling scissors, let alone access to fabric stores. Stella Mae Pettwaywho sold her quilts on Etsy for $100–$8,000, described having scissors and getting access to more fabrics as an “advantage and disadvantage” paradox.

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Many third- and fourth-generation artists returned to quilting in maturity, looking for a creative and therapeutic outlet in addition to a connection to their roots. After her mother died in 2010, she took up quilting JoeAnn Pettway-West she returned to this practice and located peace in ending her mother’s unfinished quilts. “When I do this stitch, all I can see is her hand sewing. It’s like we were there together,” he says. “It’s a little bit of her, a little bit of me.”

Delia Pettway Thibodeaux are the third generation Gee’s Bend quilts, which grandmother was a sharecropper and whose daring, rhythmic quilts are actually within the everlasting collection of the Philadelphia Museum of Art. For the Target collection, she was paid a flat fee, not a rate proportional to sales.

“I was a little worried at first” about how the quilts can be altered to suit the gathering, Pettway Thibodeaux says. “But when I saw the collection again, it felt different.”

In search of economic recovery

Because employment opportunities in Gee’s Bend are so limited, many fourth-generation quilters have left the realm to take jobs as teachers, day care staff, home health aides, or to serve within the military.

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“We, as the next generation, were more dreamers,” Pettway-West says.

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National recognition has definitely brought some positive changes. But greater visibility—through museum exhibitions, academic research, and the United States Postal Service stamp collection — didn’t necessarily translate into economic advantages. After all, the typical annual income in Boykin, Alabama remains to be well below the poverty rate of roughly $12,000, based on the nonprofit Nest.

“It’s a community that to this day really needs recognition, still needs economic revitalization,” says Lauren Cross, Gail-Oxford associate curator of American decorative arts on the Huntington Museum of Art. “So I support any economic opportunity that, you know, comes back to them.” .

But the Target line specifically is disconnected from the group’s origins and craft practice, he says. This is an issue that defines the challenge itself when something handmade and tied to a deep tradition finds its way into domestic and company use.

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“On the one hand, you want to maintain the stories and a sense of authenticity,” Cross says.

“And on the other hand,” he asks, “how to reach a wider audience?”


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This article was originally published on : thegrio.com

Business and Finance

40,000 employees thank Marriott CEO for defending Dei among political pressure

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DEI, Marriott, CEo

During the right place for the highest of labor, the overall director of Marriott Anthony Capuano divided his sentiments about how the corporate that the captains reacted to attacks on diversity, own capital and integration released by the Trump administration. Although privately he wondered if he made the correct phone, he soon received confirmation from 1000’s of employees, which he actually selected the correct path.

According to Capuano told the stakeholders At the highest, which took place on April 8-10 in Las Vegas, that Marriott wouldn’t hesitate to create a chance for everyone who crossed the corporate’s door, whatever the political pressure of the White House.

“The winds blow, but there are some basic truths for these 98 years,” Capuano told the audience. “Welcome to everyone in our hotels and create opportunities for everyone – and they will never change in principle. The words can change, but that’s what we are as a company.”

https://twitter.com/arevamartin/status/191475286650743400?s=19

Within 24 hours of his comments, he received a litany of emails from the corporate’s most significant resources: its employees, and furthermore, over 40,000 messages thanked him for coping with diversity, equality and inclusion, because they were also the values ​​during which they believed.

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Marriott, which employs over 800,000 people around the globe, was consistently placed on the list of “best companies for work”, this 12 months the hotel network took eighth place on the list and as a consequence of its strong commitment to its employees, 90% of the worker retention index within the industry, which has a mean of 57% retention index.

According to comments, Capuano represent a position Diversity, justice and integration are usually not a social programFlooding that has been supporting the White House and other Republican countries for several years. Instead, it is an element of the corporate’s operational infrastructure, and the consistency between what the corporate says and creates a culture of consistency.

Indeed, in line with Great Place is Work, jobs with great trust on the a part of their employees They often outweigh the competition by almost 4 times. Companies for their 100 best firms also exchange their results on the stock exchange greater than thrice; This signifies that the trust of employees, as attributable to Marriott, translates directly into profitability.

According to Michael C. Bush, the General Director of the Great Place to Work: “The 100 best companies have built the foundation of employees’ trust, that it drives performance in all areas of their activities – not only in some areas, and not only for some people. They are more profitable and productive because they have consistently positive professional experience, lower firing indicators and higher levels of psychological and emotional health compared to typical jobs. “

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He continued: “These leaders be certain that that every one employees have the opportunity of special recognition and be certain that that they imagine that what they do, they’ve meaning as people in the primary place, and the employees second. They built organizations during which transparency, well -being and high level of cooperation are foundations. interested parties.

Related content: Justification for a thoughtful approach to Dei: Taking a mistaken belief and reality

(Tagstranslat) diversity

This article was originally published on : www.blackenterprise.com
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Tourism to the USA is refueling. As a result, the center Flight is in the face of a $ 100 million hit

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Flight Center, one of the world’s largest travel agencies, warned that perhaps lose over $ 100 million earnings This 12 months, citing the weakening of the demand for a journey to the United States.

In a statement This week, the Company pointed to “unstable trade conditions” related to changes in the principles of entry in the USA to the Australian Security Stock Exchange (ASX).

This is the first essential indication of the Australian company that traveling to the USA is becoming a major problem. This is due to the growing fears of consumers related to American immigration controls, reports of arresting tourists and rising costs.

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Australian numbers of visitors to the USA fell by 7% in March Compared to the same time last 12 months – the sharpest fall from Covid Pandemic.

Australians should not the only ones who avoid afar. New data in the USA In March, they show sharp declines of visitors from key markets: Germany (decrease by 28%), Spain (25%), Great Britain (18%) and South Korea (15%) to mention only a few. In total, incoming tourism dropped by 11.6%.

Even Canadian travelers, traditionally the most reliable US market, fell by greater than 900,000 or 17% in March, because the growing number of Canadians select Vacation boycott.

What once was a reliable flow of high international travelers becomes a much calmer stream.

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America’s welcome mat is wearing thin

The United States, long sold as a land of possibilities and adventures, are increasingly perceived as unique. Closer control of borders, aggressive enforcement of immigration and a sharp change in the political tone They made travelers careful.

International arrival terminal at the airport in Atlanta: Tourists are considering travel plans in the USA.
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While the statement of the flight center used a cautious language, its general director Graham Turner was clear, saying:

People from Europe, Great Britain and Australia really are not looking for to go to the States, taking into consideration what is happening there. We hear increasingly people are not looking for to undergo passport control.

Reports about tourists arrestedIN Rugged AND deported At airports in the USA over small alleged visa problems or misunderstandings, they increased widely. In some cases, guests had Their phones and electronic devices searched for no clear reason. For many travelers it is Risk is not price taking.

The governments began to answer. Several countriesIncluding New Zealand, Germany, France, Denmark and Finland, updated the official advice on travel for the USA, calling residents Being caution during the visit. Filtering messages by international media is clear: the US is not as easy, protected or friendly because it once seemed.

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But while diplomatic warnings develop into louder, the economic costs of America’s attitudes are only starting to register.

Tourism: Forgotten America’s export

While President Donald Trump hit the tariffs to import goods from most countries, he ignored the contribution of services to the economy. The US actually conducts a surplus of services corresponding to education and tourism. Trump rejected the inheritance of guests as “This is not a big deal“.

Trade wars focused on goods – Cars, steel, agricultural products – but the service sector, which is a greater share in the economy, bears hidden costs.

Tourism is The largest service exports of the USAbringing over $ 2.3 trillion to the economy and one in ten jobs. This is a greater contribution than production tasks that they include about 8% total employment in the USA.

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As a driver economic prosperityTourism is not only free time; He maintains local firms, rural economies and thousands and thousands of maintenance.

Double blow for tourism

While the decline in arrivals has been widely reported, experience for many who still determine to visit, might also change.

Tourism is based on global supply chains, from food to hotel facilities to rented automotive fleets. Commercial war tariffs have increased expenditure costs common. Hotels, restaurants, airlines and attractions are handing over these higher costs to customers.

Miami Beach, Florida, USA
Miami Beach, Florida: Tourism is one in ten American jobs.
MDV Edwards/Shutterstock

Working deficiencies intensify the problem. Almost (*100*)20% of the American hotel strength He was born abroad. Cuts for seasonal work visas AND Increased concerns about deportation I left many firms fighting for locating staff, combining existing labor shortages.

. The weight is the heaviest on small and medium -sized enterprises, which Form the US economy background And play a key role in accommodation, restaurants and native tourist experiences.

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Quiet but expensive erosion

Tourism is not only a large part of the economy; It’s also Soft powerBy shaping the way the world perceives the nation through its culture, values ​​and hospitality.

Every visitor who feels undesirable, controlled or dissatisfied is not only lost sales, but Lost connection.

The research group forecasts the economy economics lose to $ 10 billion In the case of international travel in 2025, if current trends are continued.

And although advertisements about production work are approaching headers, the slow erosion of the American tourist brand can leave a longer, deeper scar on its culture, communities and place in the world.

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Lowering the flight center is not an isolated warning. This is a symptom of a wider change, which is a good risk by reversing visitors.

And for hundreds of American firms, employees and communities – and now also Australian – losses might not be so easily rejected.

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This article was originally published on : theconversation.com
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Tariffs can grow, but also a black strategy

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With the rise in inflation and tariffs, black entrepreneurs don’t shrink with fear – they seem, strategies and support them forward. I saw it first hand on Tuesday evening in Russell Innovation Center for Entrepreneurs (Rice) in Atlanta, where dozens of black founders gathered on a powerful night of dialogue, combination and brightness based on solutions.

The event, a part of the continuing programming of Rice’s “retail readiness”, was greater than just a panel. It was a forum of survival – and a reminder that owners of black firms at all times had creativity and courage to adapt under pressure. At a time when economic winds are essentially the most difficult to hit products based on products, this community is predicated on strategy, not a shortage.

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Tariffs have increased, but wisdom too

One of the essential challenges was the growing load of tariffs for imported goods that increase costs around the globe – from materials and packaging to international shipping. While the specter of economic uncertainty increased, the climate within the room was not panicked.

Asked in the event that they are afraid of growing tariffs, only a few participants raised their hands. But asked in the event that they feel influence, almost everyone did that. Instead of alarm bells, the conversation focused on solutions: improvement of logistics, taking control of the warehouse, limiting unnecessary expenses and re -assessing third party suppliers.

The prevailing message: be agile, not afraid. Panelists called us to regulate surgery before making drastic changes. The goal is just not to shrink in response to pressure – it moves smarter.

Thinking about a larger, no less

Another powerful? You have to redefine what “little business” really means. Many black entrepreneurs limit their scale from habit or perceived restrictions. But, because the panel noted, in response to federal definitions, a small company can employ as much as 500 people. This implies that we’ve got a place to dream – and constructing – constructing.

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Terri-Nichelle Bradley, the founder, entered the home along with her own journey. Known for putting educational toys within the principal retailers, akin to Target, Bradley now opens her own brick store in Atlanta on May 14. It is a brave turning point that restores ownership in her hand-her story was a unique example of what it means to regain narrative and strategy.

“Black business owners do not need every answer right away,” she said within the room. “We just have to want to figure it out.”

Recovering the narrative of Dei

The conversation also concerned a hard truth: the rise in funds and guarantees of the corporate after 2020 is assumed. But the energy within the room was not bitter – it was focused. If external support dries, the reply is just not waiting – it’s best to focus again.

Daughter of Carol sold an independent entrepreneur after a decade under the property of L'Oreal USA

Panelists encouraged us to dual authenticity and a deeper reference to the communities that may already take us. This means consistently appearance, without floating and nurturing relationships with those that deliberately buy black, women and veterans.

It is just not nearly representation-it will devote property, self-determination and economic independence.

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The evening ended with a high note with practical network activities. We were asked to avoid wasting two things: what we wanted and what we can offer. Then we exchanged this information with someone in the entire room. It was greater than a icebreaker – it was a plan.

The message was crystal clear: relationships are resources. And in such rooms, cooperation is a currency.

At a time when the headlines speak about recession and withdrawal, the entrepreneurs with whom I sat do the other. They should not waiting for saving or wonderful financing. They construct their future, one deliberate movement directly.

No panic. Just a goal. And a lot of power within the room.

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(Tagstranslat) entrepreneurship

This article was originally published on : thegrio.com
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