Lifestyle
Pharrell in Louis Vuitton celebrates the diversity of human skin at the UNESCO exhibition in Paris
PARIS (AP) – In the run-up to the Paris Olympics, Louis Vuitton celebrated the beauty of people and their skin in a star-studded menswear exhibition at the headquarters of the U.N. cultural agency UNESCO in Paris. Models dressed in all shades of the human body paraded around a large globe on grass decorated with Vuitton’s signature Damier check, making a visual symphony of diversity.
Here are some highlights from the spring 2025 shows:
Vuitton man
“It was a tribute to the people,” said menswear designer Pharrell Williams, who name-checked the Summer Olympics, in a show that gave the impression of traveling across continents against the backdrop of the Eiffel Tower and a large globe. “It went from black, to dark brown, to brown, to light brown, to beige, to some gray… and finally it became white,” the singer-turned-fashion designer said of the spring show.
The spectacular collection was dominated by checks in shades of green, blue and black, drawing inspiration from Air Afrique luggage designs. According to Vuitton, the airline, which has been in operation since the Sixties and for many years, has develop into a logo of diasporic creativity. With contributions from artists reminiscent of Lamine Diaoune and Djiby Kebe, Williams gave the collection a way of global unity.
Inspired by the UN’s cultural headquarters crammed with ambassadors, Williams explored various archetypes. The diplomat stepped out in deep, wealthy shades of Seventies-inspired tailoring. The Explorer showed up in rugged yet stylish outerwear, including practical jackets and vests. The Dandy, one other key figure, walked the Damier-check runway in jackets and coats embellished with rhinestones and pearl embroidery.
Against the backdrop of a dramatic sky, with shifting clouds and fluttering world flags, the collection’s color progression reflected the diversity of models, moving from darker to lighter tones in multicultural harmony. This theme expanded to clothing, which featured pixelated python skin patterns and world maps centered around Africa. Damier’s reinterpretation of the pattern featured a tan check pattern with multicolored accents. Leather soccer ball designs pay homage to the world’s favorite sport.
The show combined complexity with the apparent simplicity and richness of the diaspora.
Enamelled maps were embedded in the buttons, and the LV logo seemed to be subtly embossed into the fabrics. Intricate details like black-on-black embroidery and crystal and pearl accents added layers of sophistication. Elsewhere, vintage-inspired designs in soft leather featured oversized monogram patterns and distressed leather trim.
Once again, the celebrity designer made the show feel more like an act of staging a spectacle than a presentation of clothes. This appears to be the zeitgeist. Among the stars who applauded were Alicia Vikander and Michael Fassbender.
Speaking about the current global turmoil and the prevalence of world flags around the UN constructing, representing some nations at odds or worse, Pharrell said he would “never dare to think that (this show) could be a reason for people to come together.” But presenting this idea (peace) and presenting the possibilities in a poetical way is the only thing we are able to do.”
Saunders Thespian Crucible
Bianca Saunders’ models stepped out on Wednesday in a spring collection that hinted at boho thespian – all on an old-style brick runway.
The latest collection from the British-Jamaican designer, known for her digital-first approach and inclusive designs, showcased her signature mix of minimalism and cultural references.
Soft leather pantomime shoes and sneaker-style shoes combined with unexpected, random accents and flashes of eye-catching blue created a melting pot atmosphere. It was as if a theater casting director had opened a sublime dressing room box. These elements highlighted Saunders’ ability to mix tradition with modernity – a theme she consistently explores.
A blue jumpsuit and mesh hat added an urban touch, capitalizing on the theatricality present throughout the collection. Likewise, the satin-blue cravat T-shirt shimmered beautifully with its generous proportions, highlighting Saunders’ talent for progressive use of textures and fabrics.
Mesh bobble hats were the perfect archetype for the spring collection – part East London mesh shopping bag, part Old Master artist. This clever use of materials and accessories is a testament to Saunders’ commitment to sustainability, often using fabrics from platforms reminiscent of Nona Source and materials from Positive Materials and Isko.
At times, Saunders appeared to fit the latest aesthetic of the Loewe fashion brand, nevertheless it retained its distinct identity through cultural references and an progressive approach to menswear.