The Science of Pore Strips: Do They Really Work?

Pulling a strip of pore out to get a prickly pile of white pus could seem appealing, but is it as effective because it looks? “Pore strips usually contain an adhesive that bonds to the pores and unclogs them” – Dual Board Certified Pediatric and Cosmetic Dermatologist, Dr. Karana Lal says ESSENCE. However, the actual usefulness of a pus-covered strip may shock you. “They claim to remove blackheads, but they actually don’t,” Lal denies.

Below, Dr. Lal and Dr. Bhanusali explain the science behind pore strips – shedding light on how they work.

What is the pore strip made of?

“There is a part made of insoluble fiber (the outer part),” says Lal. “The side that sticks to the skin has glue.” Although there are numerous options for pore strips – from the favored ones I take a deep cleansing strip to the latest (and cutest) Starface removes pore strips– most have an analogous composition. “Some glues contain other ingredients, but it’s actually the sticky side that does the work,” Lal says.

What are blackheads?

Also often called “open blackhead” blackheads are a kind of pimples which can occur when excess sebum and dead skin accumulate within the pores. “The sticky skin cells form a keratin ball, which then oxidizes when exposed to outside air and looks like a blackhead,” says Lal. “Blackheads can be caused by hormonal stimulation, occlusive agents such as various makeup products, pollution and some pomades.”

Do they effectively remove blackheads?

At first glance, the pore strips look like pulling gunk out of blackheads and blackheads. However, “the glue from the strip sticks to the oils and the keratin sticks to the pores,” Lal says. “When you remove the strip, all the oils and keratin are removed.” Although you need to use a pore strip to cleanse your nose, “it doesn’t remove blackheads,” Lal denies. “They remove sebaceous fibers and oxidized gunk from pores.”

Contrary to popular belief, “blackheads often need to be removed,” she says. They don’t prevent the formation of blackheads or sebaceous filaments, which is why extractions are the strategy beneficial by experts for cleansing pores. Celebrity dermatologist On Hudson Dermatology and Laser SurgeryDr. Dhaval Bhanusali also warns that “sometimes opening your pores can trigger a rash, so be careful not to do it around important events.”

Can pore strips harm the skin?

Skin care products (like retinol) which can be used incorrectly or too often can do more harm than good. “They may work in the short term, but it is usually temporary and can cause trauma to the skin surface,” says Bhanusali. “There have certainly been situations where patients have had some skin removed and had to come in for a follow-up.”

What alternatives do experts recommend?

“We don’t usually recommend pore strips because the results aren’t permanent, and there are many better options,” says Bhanusali. “I like 2% salicylic acid,” citing this ingredient as it will possibly penetrate pores and break down pimple-causing impurities. Like salicylic acid, other BHAs can even reduce pore congestion and blackhead density. “I also like pimple patches, which can help relieve redness and swelling and often deliver active ingredients to the area.”