Are Eyelash Businesses in Crisis? Here’s What Technicians Say – Essence

After being attacked for her eyelash extensions, Texas congresswoman Jasmine Crockett went viral for her response over the weekend. Naturally, it sparked an ongoing conversation in regards to the price we pay for our lashes.

WITH Maintenance costs as grass-wall salons offering less for more grow and grow across the United States, justifying the worth of eyelash services might be harder now than it was 4 years ago. And while native Texans (hint: Megan Thee Stallion and Revlon collaborate on eyelashes) might be covered out of pocket, New York and California clients can go for reasonably priced at-home eyelash extension treatments in its place.

According to Alanah Sahaba, a lash specialist in Los Angeles, lashes exploded in popularity in 2020, the 12 months the pandemic began. “With masks covering most of our faces, we focused on our eyes, which made lash extensions much more desirable,” Sahaba tells ESSENCE. However, “before lash extensions became popular among the masses, a standard set of lashes cost $300 because it was hard to find someone who even did lash extensions.”

At the time, all lash technicians offered extra-full lashes in one length, making it difficult to search out styles beyond classic, hybrid, and volume. Now, with education becoming more widely available, many technicians have been in a position to expand their services. But not and not using a cost. “The almost overabundance of knowledge has led some people to jump into the lash industry without the proper training,” Sahaba says. “That’s given lash extensions as a whole such a bad rap,” she explains, citing the “get rich quick” schemes that litter the market.

Aside from technicians who’re only interested in making a fast buck (often on the expense of quality), the generational shift from traditional 9-to-5 jobs to entrepreneurship isn’t low-cost. “Inflation is making it harder to keep prices low,” Houston-based eyelash and hair tech Aria Smith she says. “When clients see a higher price, they often assume we’re overcharging, unaware of the many expenses we face,” and services at HTX range from $100 to $120. From rent and taxes to the associated fee of materials and skilled training, “the financial burden of running a lash business is significant.”

As a result, it’s harder for patrons, especially in expensive cities with high traffic, to search out a lash technician who can provide a service price their money. Therefore, they might prefer to do it themselves. Statistics show, strip eyelashes make up 65.9% The global false eyelash market, which is anticipated to grow from $1.50 billion in 2024 to $2.70 billion in 2032. “There are options in every industry,” says Jas Imani, a licensed esthetician in New York City. “DIY lashes are not new and they’re only going to get better, that’s a fact.”

Competing with DIY lashes and an oversaturated market, lash technicians are more prone to burnout, unable to show away clients even when their schedules are full. “There’s a culture of rushing around that can lead to burnout,” says Smith. Sahaba agrees, saying the toughest a part of being a lash technician just isn’t with the ability to say “no” to latest clients. “I end up working my days off or the craziest hours to get everyone in,” she says. “It’s really important to have strong boundaries and set aside days off as a lash technician, especially if you want to do it long-term, because it’s a very physically demanding job.”

Known for his or her affordability, convenience and straightforward application, drugstore lashes are a fast fix that we’ve even seen on red carpets and celebrity awards shows (think: KISS lashes). But their popularity could also be behind a perceived decline, removing inexperienced lash technicians who offer only basic services. “I think [DIY lashes] are the main reason for the decline in business for lash technicians who continue to offer the same copy/paste styles that don’t require a lot of expertise,” says Sahaba. “I think these lash artists are becoming less common and they won’t be very successful in this industry for a long time.”

By Miami Lash Tech Valencia Kogerthe rise of custom designs is replacing standard kits. “I think the hardest part of being a lash technician starts with how much you know and how confident you are in your craft,” Koger says. For example, her hottest lash service, called “lash color matching,” includes clients with albinism, who may not give you the chance to search out DIY lashes in their shade. “This technique is popular because it’s inclusive,” she says. “It opens up the possibility of anyone wearing lash extensions, even if it’s a one-time thing.”

Imani notes that lash services are identical to selling every other product. “If a lash artist feels like they’re losing customers, they need to adjust the treatment or experience to accommodate that,” she explains. From offering all-original lash styles like Sahaba to Koger’s eyelash color-matching service, “the treatment is an experience and usually a luxury for most people,” Imani says. So scheduling appointments with lash technicians who offer a service that DIY lashes don’t, and having them in locations apart from only a salon, will keep these artists afloat.

“The beauty community can support lash techs by including us in spaces that makeup artists and beauty influencers have access to,” Koger says. After all, their influence, as seen this week with Rep. Jasmine Crockett’s viral moment, is what makes lash extensions an unparalleled detail in black beauty. “Lashes are typically the last step in a routine, and with our expertise, we can add so much value to the entire beauty industry.”