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Influence of black glam on Milan Fashion Week – Essence

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Behind the run: Impact of Pat McGrath and Virgina Pinto Moreira on Milan Fashion Week

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The season able to wear AW25 in Milan is over. The city is synonymous with luxury, fashion and, unfortunately, an extended popularity of exclusivity in the style and cosmetics industry. While fashion could be very focused on the moments of the runway, it is simple to overlook creative forces behind them. The whole village of artists, stylists and technicians works in tandem to revive the designer’s vision. Without the correct beauty direction, even probably the most beautifully crafted clothes can fall flat.

Imagine that you just are sitting in the primary place on a really anticipated program. The darkened, musical lights of Crescendos and the primary model enters the runway. But something is turned off – their face is unintentionally naked, their hair is untouched. Magic is lost immediately. In other words, Beauty is an indispensable element of telling stories that shapes the way in which the gathering is perceived and remembered. And yet, despite the Milan Fashion Week, by which he organizes 23 essential catwalk shows this season, only two black lichers we all know Helmed teams: The Legendary Pat McGrath, who organized makeup for Versace, and Virgie Pinto Moreirawho led the direction of hair for Ferragamo.

Their work was not only making a look – it was about giving a tone, raising the gathering and proveing ​​why the range of beauty leadership is crucial. Milan’s resistance to turning behind the scenes is nothing latest. Their presence on the catwalk in Milan was a triumph, but additionally served as a transparent reminder of the work to be done. Two black requests within the highlight from 23 essential programs aren’t enough. Their talent deserves celebration, but their rarity in these roles emphasizes the industry proof against real integration.

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Below is a deeper view of the work of two Glam experts through the AW25 Week Medilan Fashion Week season.

AW25 Versace and Pat McGRath

Makeup of the AW25 Versace program was a master class in balance and contrast, and Pat McGrath led a charge. Focusing? Brave, a vampire lip that emanated power, seduction and rise up. McGrath understood the duty, ensuring that the lip of the statement didn’t overwhelm, but as a substitute harmonized without effort with the remainder of the wonder.

To balance deep, dramatic plum shades on the lips, she created an ethereal, light complexion – the skin that looked like lunar law. Radian was not only a glow; Added the softness and atmosphere of trust. Carved cheekbones, eyes defined by a subtle, iridescent lavender eye shadow, and soft eyebrows allowed the lips to be central, maintaining general elegance, which seemed modern and complex.

The result was the right complement to the AW25 Donatella Versace collection, which celebrated old and latest – with a mix of nostalgic scale, tailoring, sensual silhouettes and punk accents. When the garments passed the border between strength and sensuality, McGratha did the identical thing – causing an undeniable aura of self -confidence to the runway with a bit of the rebellious spirit embodimenting the subject “Superhereos Versace”.

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AW25 Ferragamo and Virgie Pinto Moreira

“Bloom in motion. Statement in red. “Creative director Ferragamo, Maximilian Davis, drew inspiration from the German expressionist dance movement from the start of the twentieth century, known for his emotional story and fluidity. The collection, with an emphasis on grace, discipline and strict expression, required the looks of hair, which seemed equally purposeful – known but powerful.

Pinto Moreira assured that the direction of the hair hit the right balance: minimal but influential. The hair of each model was meticulously rejected back and stayed away from the face, allowing them to be natural to a central place – attracting all their eyes to the clothing. It was the equivalent of makeup without makeup, but within the case of hair-so much of polished with the air of refined simplicity.

Style differences added the depth of general aesthetics, remaining a faithful motif. Some models wore sharp middle parts with cascading hair in soft, but blunt, liquid lines, subtly nodding head against the controlled but expressive nature of Tanzteter. Others wore elegant braids, strengthening the sense of structure and elegance. Meanwhile, models with natural 4C textures have been proud to present each band of their beautiful bends and coils, a quiet but powerful statement within the industry, which is historically natural black hair.

Together, these elections created a coherent but diverse narrative of hair – one which reflected the spirit of movement, identity and craftsmanship embedded in Davis’s vision for the AW25 Ferragamo collection.

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Theater

Ruth E. Carter about the archiving of her black kinematic heritage – essence

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The past to the present: Fashion generations is a brand new series of women’s stories women who deal with interference, who made a big contribution to fashion.

Interview with Ruth E. Carter appears to be a master class about the black material history. Her memory of the costumes of some of the most vital cultural movies presents a transparent picture of her heritage, imagination and dedication to Crafts. Sharing this heritage with the audience is her travel exhibition, Ruth E. Carter: AfroTumism in costume DesignArriving at the Children’s Museum in Indianapolis on March 22.

Carter’s profession is coloured with devoted self -education and ingenuity. Learning essential nuances between the aesthetic distance in the theater or the “texture subtlety” enlarged by a movie film led her to define a story of a story that sees no restrictions on creation. Regardless of whether it means spending countless hours in the study in library collections, or transforming the pier Imports Placed in the warrior’s head, its dedication to telling stories as a way of cultural behavior is undeniable.

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The importance of archiving this work is a fact he feels about. Together with its early beginnings resulting from the Carter theater, she saw archiving costumes as the next part of the work. Because theatrical budgets were often limited, having a set of previous costumes that may be derived, and re -image was crucial.

Ruth E. Carter about the archiving of her black cinema fashion heritage
Colin Gray

“After entering the film industry in 1987, I thought:” Well, we created so many costumes, there are lots of things that might be useful when [Spike Lee] He returns to make one other movie, “he starts. “At that point he was burning, he made a brand new film yearly. So I might approve things in the basement of 40 acres and mule, his production company. “After repeatedly finding that the clothes were dropped from one or another reason, she realized:” Maybe I am unable to save every part we do in the theater, but I can save things which are essential for the film. ”

Carter explains how no one talked about the design of costumes on this era of movies, apart from Lee, remembering their name and work in interviews, and as well as, nobody thought about talking to the designers themselves. Today, because of his journey, Ruth E. Carter educates a brand new generation on the cultural impact of design.

“Now, by me, collecting important songs from my films for years, I gathered this collection of the history of black cinema. The conversation came to the fore and we are able to talk about the process of being a costume designer. “Thanks to this process, he proudly shows his life work at the Children’s Museum with the intention of inspiring young people to find art and costumes as an actual profession path.

“It took me a long time to realize this exhibition,” explains the curatorial process. For the first time she began after the release in 2018 – she became the first black woman who won the Academy Award for the best costume project the following 12 months. From her childhood sewing machine and early sketches in college, to closer take a look at the ZOOT and Turkana-Tribe suits inspired by beads, the result was a comprehensive story with a full circumference.

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Ruth E. Carter about the archiving of her black cinema fashion heritage
Thanks to the kindness of SCAD

“I chose things for this exhibition, which would not only inspire artists and show a costume design, but also gave people historical education.” This includes the dress she wore to receive her historical Oscar award.

The companion of her work inside Indianapolis displayHe is the work of the visual artist of Israel Solomon. Carter explains the overlapping of two media, for instance through the theory of colours and a job that every time plays: “The project of visual art and costumes tell stories that shape cultural narrative”, shares. “[They] Celebrate identity and heritage in a unique and powerful way. “

Seeing how all this work connects, the deeply approving Carter. “I see the passion that I took with me to each of these films.” She talks about the wisdom she gained at every project and the way the use of “anachronisms” allowed her to be historically accurate when moving a conversation forward. After she learned about the significant history of Indigo and was capable of tell the story of the historic wreck of the ship through the fruits of her delivery, ensuring an in depth history of black culture and survival through the cinema.

Ruth E. Carter about the archiving of her black cinema fashion heritage
JB Lacroix/AFP via Getty Images

“I am very intended in my work, and when I see it all together, sometimes it is overwhelming. It’s a joy; Celebrating who I am and what I could do for many years of my career and how influence it is for people. ”

He returns to the thought of parents bringing their inquisitive and inventive children to the exhibition and the way transformational may be for a beginner mind. This is especially essential because artistic education and programs lose financing. As a toddler, Carter received creative sales points by supporting her local people, supported for her by a single mother. She believes that access to the community in this manner was shaped by her future and private development, and thus enriching her believes that children find obligatory safety networks and extracurricular possibilities. Its purpose is to encourage this cultural exploration and community through a narrative, which she builds with every film, and strengthen this curiosity through the exhibition.

On this subject, he emphasizes Afrofuturism, an idea that he strongly uses in his work. Carter defines Afrofuturism as “the unification of culture and technology in one space.” This union shows the way black communities have historically imagined possibilities outside our oppression.

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He looks more clearly at Afrofuturistic stylization as a option to the shape of a collective identity rooted in pride and immunity. Take, for instance, the challenge of the throne scene, wherein a number of traditional clothing reinforced with futuristic technology appeared. “For me [about] Mixing traditions and innovations in creating projects that feel the past, while imagining a bold and vibrant future. ”

For Carter, Afrofuturism is just as obligatory for Earth, Winds, Fire and Parliament-Funkadelica as to speed up Lee, which shapes its world switching on through the film. He hopes that they testify to this exhibition, young children can feel moved to play clothes, conjure up the character and shape their paths of life through ingenious lenses.

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Billboard Women in Music 2025, to honor Erykah Badu, Muni Long and more – essence

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(Photo of Rich Polk/Billboard via Getty Images)

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The way forward for music is a girl – at the least according to a billboard, which restores its annual Women in music The event on March 29 at YouTube Theater in Inglewood. The night led by Laverne Cox will have fun women shaping the industry, from icons to rising stars.

This 12 months’s distinction is Erykah Badu, which is able to receive the ICON award for its cultural and music contribution. Badu, from Dallas, a profession inside twenty years, a breakthrough in the music industry because the release of your debut album in 1997. The combination of elements of jazz, soul, hip-hop and r & b, an revolutionary approach of Badu to music, fashion and artistry meant that it became a deposit of up to date culture. Her influence goes beyond her music – a transparent Badu style and fearless authenticity left a trace to generations of musicians and fans, strengthening her place as probably the most essential cultural icons of the twenty first century.

Billboard Women in Music 2025 to honor Erykah Badu, Muni Long and more
New York, New York – October 28: Erykah Badu participates in the CFDA 2024 awards on the American Museum of Natural History on October 28, 2024 in New York. (Photo Jamie McCarthy/Wireimage)

In recognition of her amazing profession, The Icon Award is the appropriate honor for Badu, who not only broke the musical boundaries, but additionally modified the perception of ladies in music. From her newer works, in this Bad, she still evolves as an artist, remaining faithful to her roots. Her unique voice, combined together with her daring approach to creativity, made her a everlasting figure in the industry and is an example of what innovation means, while remaining authentic.

In addition to honoring Bad, this 12 months’s Rising Star Award, handed out by Honda Stage, will go to Muni Long, an artist who had an explosive 12 months in 2024. For a protracted time, the artist awarded grammatical, made a wave in the music industry thanks to her hit “HRS and HRS”, which attacked her on the focal point. Before her fame, Long wrote for one among the best names in the industry, including Rihanna, Ariana Grande and Mariah Carey. However, her decision to get out of behind the scenes and the focal point turned out to be probably the most powerful movements of her profession.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHXDZ5FF2A

The passage of Long’s Muni from the writer of the songs from behind the scenes to the artist melting the list was unusual. She quickly recognized herself as probably the most essential voices in modern R&B, and her breakthrough success shows no signs of slowdown. Long captured the hearts of fans and critics, which makes her a special star. The Rising Star award is to recognize her rapid growth in importance and her constant success as an artist with a vibrant future.

Billboard Women in Music 2025 to honor Erykah Badu, Muni Long and more
Atlanta, Georgia – July 14: The singer Muni Long performs on stage on the State Farm Arena on July 14, 2024 in Atlanta, Georgia. (Photo Umbrella Griffin/Getty Images)

Although the Billboard Woman of the Year award stays a mystery, anticipation is already being built for the one who takes home the celebrated title. Previous awards include Sha and Cardi B, they each had a big cultural and musical influence. This 12 months’s recipient follows in the footsteps, joining the ranks of ladies who shaped the music industry deeply. Considering the extent of talent on the list of distinction, whoever takes this award home will undoubtedly be someone who has defined again, what it means to be a girl in music.

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From “the next Friday” to the forgotten: why our laughter deserves a large screen – essence

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You may not know the stage, but you might know this sense. “Craig” Ice Cube passes through a cluttered, clearly musical store from the 90s – mainly pink, equipped with a lot of vinyl. Just behind him, the irregular energy of Pinky, played by Clifton Powell, absorbs peace. With a pistol in hand and a bubble suit, he provides a line: “Say another skein *** ING Word!”

In laughter – Deep, unlimited, contagious. It spills through theatrical passages and benches, so transmitted that without it you forget how the outside world sounded. This rare effect promotes each knowledge and community. This is the lack of comedy movies, akin to about 25 years after the theater debut: all the things that public Mirth revealed black people so little at the moment, but once we laughed, Joy found the company with greater joy.

The film followed Craig’s moving to the suburbs to escape from the vengeful Hood Demon Deebo, serving for example of how black comedies on the big screen became shutter speed – with all their in the language, dirty cartoon meat, neck rolls and lavish black. Each watch fell like comfortable food, but it surely was not a sort of virgin cinema food, but something completely different: a world of decent from white norms or cultural sensitivity. The night of laughter from our most unruly, absurd self.

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Think about moments: the Nineteen Eighties was the decade of Eddie Murphy, who shared the space with the catchy, self -proclaimed industry satire of Robert Townsnd and Riff Blaxploation Family. At the starting of the Nineteen Nineties, it was where Kid’s game turned a black teenage revolt into a cultural movement, and earlier in 1995, when Cube and Chris Tucker re -defined sooner or later in a hood with cheerfulness and personality.

This combination of stupidity, spontaneity and jokes offered by black humor was another to the reality of America itself, a nation fighting racial growth catalyzed by Rodney King in 1992. To really take into consideration the importance of those large screen reflections.

He attached this power, combining humor with a sophisticated representation of black professionals moving in love and ambition. Earlier, from 1989, it combined acute admireing and comedy moments with a sobering lens with unevenness. These movies created spaces during which emotional relief could develop, even amongst the nuances of black life.

Do not make a mistake, a few of this passing era aging like weekly milk-show, especially lazy, reduction stereotypes of LGBTQ+ people or uniform performances of black men, women and other marginalized groups. , for instance, although celebrated for the presentation of Africans with the majesty, he bends strongly in ignorance through the caricatured performances of African traditions, framing them as exotic or absurd for the comedy effect. Despite this, these movies brought the world a set of such charming and tactile heroes that they felt – and still feel in a black theater performance – like imperfect Edens.

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At the starting of the twenty first century, movies like and were still released, but at the end of 2010 movies akin to Feel Feel were threatened. Directed by Malcolm D. Lee, a dirty comedy celebrated the Black Sister with humor and heart, transforming a modest budget value $ 19 million into a global hit value $ 140 million, proving that black comedies still had a box office.

From then on, this experience has disappeared to a large extent and we had to accept surrogate, lure and stand-in: Streaming services now have a choke for all the things, including black comedies. The current system is not any longer designed for the production of the hit. Studies want phrases and numbers tested by focusing. Universal Pictures, which yesterday had a probability to spread, would favor to bet on the Oscar nominated today.

You could easily see the slow death of the species as the inevitable victim of the Hollywood profit machine – a system during which the content of satisfying black recipients often suffers or faces the most cynicism. The biggest names in black comedy movies, after all, adapted to The Times. Eddie Murphy completely missed theaters, moving straight to the best video. Starring Eric André found a house in Netflix, while comedy horror enjoyed the success of streaming after a modest theater race.

It is a lack of experience that’s difficult to overlook in 2025, when – withdrawing the diversity, equality and emboldened wave of a regressive attitude towards the race and representation – physical spaces for black folks that will be present in safety are almost disappearing. This is where a few of us at the moment are: a bit hopeless, skeptical and in a mood for a specific laugh, like the previous outflow in the Nineteen Eighties and Nineteen Nineties.

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On the occasion of the twenty fifth anniversary last month, the legacy of the flim reminds us of what was once. These movies were not only entertainment – they were spaces for joy and cultural affirmation. Although Keke Palmer and Sha’s LED have turn into a hit, theaters still can not take black comedies because it used to be, but the need to laugh and connect must find the way elsewhere, as at all times.

If the theatrical experience that provided the black audience in 2018 was a reminder of the force of joint remark, the lack of this common joy – mainly the sound of other black people laughing together – is a loss that’s now immeasurable. Power and pressure aspire to tame hope and can’t be withstanded by yourself. Black people must find ways to listen again.

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